Sling vs cordelette anchor reddit. It all comes out in the wash to being just fine.

Sling vs cordelette anchor reddit. It all comes out in the wash to being just fine.

Sling vs cordelette anchor reddit. What size slings and how many each do you like having set aside for trad anchors? Or do you prefer cordelette? And why. Double it, tie two a figure 8 or overhand knots (with the stitching in one of the end loops), and then use two strands to make an anchor for both toproping and multipitch. Proper equalization of the pieces in the anchor is FAR more important than minimizing extension in the event that a piece fails. Of note, we generally travel in a 3 man team and tend to be extra cautious and carry more than we need, hence why we wanted to see your lists! Yes, This. As long as the tree is big and solid enough. To be honest the lack of knowledge from the employees has got me wondering. 4-Point trad anchor building with cordelette. I use a 240 centimeter sling for trad anchors and it works for many different types of anchors as well as being lighter than the same amount of cord. The rest of the cordelette I can build my anchor system and have 3 carabiners for it. If I'm leading block pitches or don't want to use my rope as the anchor for whatever reason, I've started carrying two or three 120cm dyneema slings over my shoulder and leaving the cordelette at home. 5 = breaking force oft the system //the 0. Here is my rule of thumb: have the cordellette just long enough so that when you double it, and then double it again, it is the same length as a single shoulder-length sling. They said this was pretty thin for an anchor. And perfect an anchor setup that minimizes or eliminates knots in slings. Nylon webbing is cheap and easy to buy in bulk. Simple solution: don't buy dyneema slings. "I've stated that my personal belief is that lashing in with the rope or with a cordelette or slings is almost always good enough, the exceptions being when the anchor placements are crap and you have to run the rope off the belay without getting in some pro immediately. Far be it from me to tell anyone besides my partner how they should climb. If one piece is too far away, simply use a sling to extend it. Lead up Build a cordelette anchor Either clove into the master ur use a sling/pas to clip into the masterpoint/shelf Since you wont be lead belaying its fine if you want to simply clip in for speed vs. Also, I fail to see how a couple knots in a cordelette would yield a significant weight difference than a PAS. If my anchor pieces are spread (and my grey sling is in use), I'll do a v-clove anchor with a blue sling, and/or extend a placement with an alpine. I prefer something I always knew to be called the "electricians coil". I have read a lot of conflicting information regarding anchors. Dec 18, 2014 · With ropes, belay devices, cordelette, and slings crowding the anchor, it’s easy for this important setup to become an overcomplicated rat’s nest. A cordelette, however, offers a lot of redundancy without the need of two slings, and has no extension in the event of partial anchor failure. But would the lack of stretch in dyneema negate the extensive loading of one anchor, achieving equalization? If anyone is curious about the poor equalization properties of a cordelette I'm happy to go over it, and hear other people's opinions on the matter. They had a problem with the cordelette I got to set up an anchors. To make a cordelette, take an 18-20 ft. Sep 4, 2011 · For cleaning sport/fixed anchors or staging single or multi-pitch raps I clip into the anchor with 1 or 2 slings or a personal anchor girth hitched to my harness. it's not an either or and i have been doing it that way for a long time Jun 29, 2013 · A CGR look at modern belay and anchor systems – are they better than just the rope? Personal Anchor Systems collection – we tested all these systems. Learn how to make a three-piece trad anchor using a quad or traditional overhand-knot technique. Sport anchor: 2 quickdraws Trad anchor: cordelette or climbing Here's what I'd recommend: 30m static rope (9-11 mm) 1 or 2 25ft cordolettes 2 double-length nylon slings 4 single-length nylon slings several non lockers 6 lockers a rope! Climbing Anchors by John Long, or any other anchor-building book This gear will allow you to utilize natural features to build top-rope anchors. Besides buying some 7mm Cordelette, can you suggest what slings, runners etc I should also pick up? Thanks as always! An anchor refers to the whole system — the anchor points, the protection gear, runners, carabiners and climbing rope. I'd also have the best angle possible between the two legs, minimizing the forces on each bolt. So your calculations shoud go like this : 2* (rating oft the sling)*0. You often The 'Quad Anchor' is an anchor system which self-adjusts to keep an equal force on each anchor point. I hate cordelette also. The knots stay in the sling for at least the entire day. For a gear anchor, or a two bolt anchor with additional gear to back up sketchy bolts, I like using at least three pieces even if each piece is absolutely bomber, so the simple single sling sliding X with limiter knots wouldn't apply there (I'd use an equalette as pictured above, or the pre-equalized cordelette that is pretty much standard Hey Guys, I am working on building my first trad rack. 3 to 0. Obviously you're already getting most of that benefit from the dynamic rope. How to build a trad anchor Not all belay stances are bolted. All this with very little extra weight. In my 30+ years of climbing and mountaineering I’ve seen some shocking belays, including some of my own (in the early days)! I often climb with friends who send 8b but A neat new Idea that I haven't seen, but it's kind of handy having a pre-knotted cordelette for other things such as slinging a large feature or boulder. Oct 24, 2018 · Using a cordelette is standard practice for many climbers when building multi-piece gear anchors. He immediately thought I was talking about a cordelette or sling anchor that people typically use for a 2 bolt anchor (doubled with limiting knots making a master point with 4 strands). Keep your belay orderly with this effortless technique: using the “shelf. Is the general consensus to use cordelette, tubular webbing, a sewn sling, or something else? And what do most people connect it with? Double fisherman's, sheet bend, water knot, flat overhand bend? And what is the most efficient in terms of safety, set up time, and using/carrying materials? Jan 24, 2011 · There was always redundancy in the anchor by using two separate slings tied to separate trees and equalized by wrapping the trees. Cordelette, sling, or rope for anchor? Hey, I'm thinking about getting into trad climbing, so I am currently doing quite a bit of research. Sometimes with a regular cordelette or slings. The knots subtract, but the loops add more back. The downside is that the anchor has a pre-determined direction of equalization that cannot be adjusted without retying the Cordelette. If you want I can send you photo but later in day when I come home. Reply reply Tom0laSFW • It’s not that complicated, you don’t pull out or replace gear you just clip your rope, long sling or cordelette directly to the existing pieces of the anchor wether they’re bolts or gear it doesn’t really matter and build your set up underneath so your leader can just unclip and go. There are always exceptions though so if you are climbing in a new area you should probably know the basics of building an anchor and carry a sling etc if you don't know what the anchor is going to be. Remember, you have at least one loop, making two strands. 6mm appears to be rated around 6-7. Just use a sling or two, or a quad, or a cordelette, or an equalette, or a couple sliding X'swhatever floats yer boat. However, learning how to place traditional gear will give you a lot more Webbing, Dyneema sling, or static rope for tying around a natural anchor for better abrasion resistance? You can build an anchor just about anywhere at the lake with a set of hexes and a 25-50 foot piece of static rope. But here's my take. For rock climbing, consider 5 to 7 meters of 7 mm cord. Hi all, anybody have any thoughts regarding the differences in usefulness/safety between a cordelette and a daisy chain (especially as personal anchor slings?) Jun 7, 2024 · Rather than using a huge honker cordelette, instead you use a Dyneema sling; I prefer 180 cm. That being said, if you’ve got rope to spare for anchor building you certainly gain a lot of ease in connecting pieces (don’t have to fiddle with making static arms and other weird configurations). There is a climb I’m wanting to project, and the top is accessible by foot to set up a top rope. For double length slings (4'), anchor webbing and cordelette, many folks use a twisted rack. Carrying gear It’s quick and easy to attach all of your carabiners and climbing equipment to one Jul 6, 2014 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. You need slings for alpine draws (and maybe securing yourself where using the rope isn't the best) anyway, you need cordelette for rescue systems anyway, both have their use in different situations and you should know how to rig an anchor with anything you have on hand. long section of seven- to eight-millimeter Perlon accessory cord and use a double fisherman's knot to tie the cord into one big loop. Make sure to read about these useful cordelette tips that I wish I knew when I first started out on my climbing and hiking adventures. Top rope forces really should never come anywhere close to blowing a piece, but equalization over minimal extension! People are talking about using (non-)lockers, cordelette/sling, pas/cloving. I don't use a quad, equalette or ACR "We did a lot of testing with Sterling and found that binding was a bigger factor than first suspected, especially with sliding X, where a sling is basically hitched around the biner, less so on somethng like a quad, where anchor point biners are clipped though a comparatively wide loop. I added Sling TV as an addition to my YTTV package because of the YTTV ESPN/Disney debacle, although now resolved, and enjoy Sling TV very much. Climb on dudes and dudettes! I'm not saying you always have to use a sling or cordelette, but if the only available anchors are spaced far back from the cliff edge and if you insist on using an indirect belay, surely it is better to extend the anchor with a single strand of rope rather that this mess of attaching an addition 5 strands of rope to your tie-in knot. Sep 21, 2018 · Cordelettes - what length and diameter? If you choose to carry a cordelette, the first questions are: what diameter, and how long? For snow climbing or glacier travel, consider 4 meters of 6 mm cord. For situations that will put a lot of abuse on gear, like top rope anchors or multi-pitch anchors, I like cordelette or tied nylon runners. I only carry webbing while climbing for use in bail anchors, but for canyoneering where it is super common I would use the 1in tubular webbing. Those four strands should be just the same size as a shoulder sling, so that way it's easy to carry over your shoulder. Additional bail option to leave a cordelette. Mar 1, 2018 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. 8kn vs 12. I always undo my cordelette to extend the anchor for top roping. I spend some time considering 6mm or 7mm for anchor cordelette (I selected the ticker). What's the advantage of this over a 120 or 240cm sling? Cheers, Michael I went to an outdoor shop and said I wanted cord for a top rope anchor cordelette and an prussik knot. 5. ) I have cordelette, slings, and of course plenty Usually around 16-20mm wide, nylon climbing slings are much bulkier (and more durable) than lightweight 6-14mm Dyneema slings. What would be the best way to utilize these trees for an anchor? (Configurations, knots, etc. Later on in my climbing history, I began using static rope for the anchors. 9 high tensile stuff for a lot of things, but anchor building isn't one of them. Im usually pretty critical of Sling, but I do think Sling is the least worst option available. Sling recently made some modest improvements to their app, but there is still work to be done. Please check out John Long's Climbing Anchors 3rd edition. My question is: Given two fixed bolts, would it be better to use a Quad or two quickdraws to build an anchor? Cordelette or accessory cord is a skinny rope from about 5mm to 9mm (bigger is generally stronger, smaller is not suitable for climbing). just use the rope on multipitch or use the cordelette or use a few spare slings that you cleaned on the way up to use to break down the anchor. Say I've arrived at a two-bolt anchor, but I'm not 100% sure the bolts are bomber. It all comes out in the wash to being just fine. Oct 29, 2023 · You can absolutely still use it without doubling it over once more, but I find that sets the master point to low for my liking. ) nylon sling will last much longer and hold up to more wear and tear so would be a good option for your first sling. It can be better than other methods of equalizing in certain situations. /5. If you don't have this chance because of sharp edges than you can make anchor on base with sling tied with "tie knot" or one part of rope ended on both sides with figure 8 or 6 and than conected with HMS carabiner for anchor, for rope. As an aside, if you're going to use the "shelf" on this monolithic anchor, you should research where to clip. 4 lockers, (2 in the hard points for contraversial harness setup) 1 alpine draw on a 240cm sling, 3 prussiks, (2 5mm and 1 6 or 7mm) 2 nonlockers, 1 or 2 pulleys, 1 5ft untied runner, 1 12 foot chest harness runner, 1 15ft untied runner, belay device, 1 rap ring, 1 PAS, and 1 set of texas kickers with 1 purcell extendable anchor. As far as streaming goes, it has been doing relatively well without buffering and PQ issues over these 2 weeks. Two cordalettes (or equalettes or whatever) wouldn't add to your weight when leading as one is left at the belay. Just found this community and think it's rad. Yes, two seperate slings is a far stronger system, but requires both anchor bolts to be at the same height to properly distribute the load on two equal length slings, which is not always the case. You got to be confident no what you are doing and have good arguments for your choices, no matter what they are. the alternative would be to dedicate a sling or two to the same task, so generally it is not something that is completely extra. We also bring up a shovel and probe for the group. upvote for something new Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Knots in nylon= ok knots in dyneema= less ok but still okay. Feb 2, 2018 · Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! In this video we review considerations for building a traditional anchor with slings, in the case where a Hi all, I’m fairly new to trad climbing and particularly inexperienced when building anchors. There are many ways to set up a top rope anchor and this article covers 7 of them. So buying a cordelette to build a quad is kind of like saying you're getting a boat with snow tires. Cords usually have two portions, a sheath and a core. I am in the process of renewing pretty much all nylon, webbing and sling from my rack. Thoughts on 6mm cordalette use exclusively as a multipitch trad anchor? Any tubular webbing or pre-sewn slings will also be suitable. I'm looking for information on materials used for building rappel anchors. I recently bought a cordelette so I rarely use the 10 foot webbing anymore but they were handy if anchors were set back slightly and a double length sling wasn't enough. I recognize cordelette can be more versatile, but it's not worth the bulk for me. Just curious. Many use 7mm cord (myself included). Learn how to set pro and use appropriate natural protection. I wondered if its true, so I want to ask you all Do any of They are also light for alpine stuff. My biggest complaint with Sling are: The format of the guide sucks. A single strand of dyneema sling is rated to 22kn, which is far stronger than any anchor needs to be, but dyneema strands can be cut by sharp rock. I am purchasing a set of Djinn Axess quickdraws and already have everything to construct a cordelette anchor. As with a static cordelette, if one arm is longer than another, the longer arm will take less of the load. But if someone falls near the anchor with less rope to soak up the shock, and the anchor is less than bombproof, that 7mm elasticity could theoretically matter. 6 depending in the knot //the 2 comes from the fact that you have 2 strings when knoting cord together Tldr: slings are fucking cheap, and when in doubt buy new The cordelette I can chop it and make my own Personal Anchor System (purcell prusik)along with a carabiner. There are no bolts for anchors, but there are two trees. Mar 23, 2020 · On popular routes there are usually in situ belays, you might need to add a piece or back up the tat but generally a cordelette or long sling isn’t necessary. Mar 23, 2020 · Hi all, I keep seeing references to cordelette, especially for equalising/creating a master/power point between multiple piece trad anchors. They tend to be more versatile and durable than dyneema slings, and they are cheap enough to cut up or leave behind. It needs an update. Oct 6, 2009 · Paul there are different materials that can go into a product. If rigging a quad here, you will need a 120 cm sling or two 60 cm slings in parallel. Any thoughts? Btw. The quad is already an over engineered anchor and you could build an equally strong master point or clove hitch anchor with half the cord and faster adjustability. that's just noise. Both are static, the shop employee told me it's better not to use static for top rope anchors. As always, I recommend you do some research on anchor building. Fold your cordelette in half and secure the two loops on one end to the master point (small locking carabiner) of your first quad or sliding X. Can't make a good bollard with a single length sling. Having said that, I like 20-22 ft of 7mm for a cordelette. Bluewater does make a 7mm dynamic prusik cord which could be used to make a cordelette, however a dynamic cordelette absolutely will not provide improved equalisation. This makes them the best choice for situations such as extending a belay device, replacing anchor webbing or attaching yourself to an anchor before abseiling. Ropes are getting skinnier and skinnier, and with 7. 1mm double rope, has anyone cut one up into cordalette? It seems it would offer much better dynamics properties for anchors, much better long term durability from knotting stress, as well as a higher breaking strength than traditional polyester/nylon cordalette. But, there’s a few more tricks than the standard set up that can make your life easier. To build a composite quad, follow the following steps: Create the quad or sliding X between components 1A and 1B first. If swapping leads, I most often anchor with the rope. I try for 3 pieces but will work with 2 if I determine they are really good. I’ll use draws or slings, depending on the situation, or just clove-hitch with the rope itself. Went to get a new one at my local shop yesterday and was told 6mm is the way to go unless it's for TR. All of your Setting up anchors Slings are perfect for connecting climbing anchor systems. Please be also advised, that the knot in the sling will reduce the holding power of the sling. In my mind such a small fall could easily be produced by a small fuck up at the anchor while clipped in with a sling to belay, yank on a stuck rap rope or haul a bag etc yes you can tie in to the anchor with the rope but often at semi hanging belays I also use a sling to keep rigging simple and allow for easy adjustability etc. Do you guys think this is safe? REI said it can be used for anchors. " This is not accurate. Hey guys, I've been leading in the gym for a while now and am just getting into climbing outside. These uses tend to not be very rough on slings. Nothing is wrong with it. Popular anchors will link carabiners to anchor points by using either multiple slings or a sling tied into a climbing knot to split it in to redundant connection points. In leading, that is definitely a big anchor, but I personally don’t really ever use a quad when leading/on multi pitch. And I second the advice to get a 120cm sling for general purpose (anchor building, alpine draw, etc. Very appealing as a 6mm cordalette bomb is quite a bit more compact than it's 7mm equivalent, but seems a lot weaker (8. Discuss! [repost from mountain project] comments sorted by Best Top New Controversial Q&A Add a Comment [deleted]• Additional comment actions [removed] Reply JohnWesely • Apr 2, 2021 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. cloving, just make sure the sling has minimal slack at all times She gets up and cloves into the master with the rope sling x 2 double length sling x 2 extra cordelette Certain items, like the pickets, we may hold off on and only bring 1 up for the group. . It takes a lot of slings (and carabiners, if you don't trust slings girth-hitched together) to make an anchor on a boulder the size of a Beetle, but only one cordalette. I probably use two redundant slings as a Sliding X as my most common one, but sometimes it's the cordelette, sometimes (but rarely), it's bunny ears figure 8 with the rope. 5kn 7mm is between 13. As such, I use the 5. Hey guys. I usually just bring one cordalette and a double length sling plus an extra shoulder length sling or two for an anchor if I'm going to lead every pitch. They sold me 5mm cord for the prussic and 7mm for the anchor. It's not the same as a regular 3 point cordelette. Mammut contact sling is my personal favorite. A lot of the issues with the other thread was people calling things the wrong fucking thing and providing information that was both incorrect and confusing. I got this cordelette, which is only 8mm wide. So, it looks as though Sling TV will be a keeper for me. What do you use, and why do you like it? This is more about personal preference/ease of use/speed, less so about safety 30 meters seems like a lot of material for an anchor considering most ropes for climbing are 60-70m. I take a cordelette to be a long length (how long?) of 7mm static cord joined into a loop with a double fisherman's knot. To create one on the cheap it can be made from 7mm or thicker accessory cord (perlon) tied in a loop with a triple fisherman's knot (as for double fishermans, but with an extra stopper knot on each side). Now I only have to replace one sling every few seasons, and the added length means I get more flexibility for that one anchor as well as a few others. An equalette or cordelette (cordalette?) would have For bolted stations it's more convenient to just use a double-length sling (either premade or your own webbing one). Reply reply More replies Individual-Channel65 • Been using a 7mm cordalette for 10+ years. The only time I would take cordelette is if I'm in a more adventurous area and I may have to cut my cord to make rap anchors on the descent. Always thought 7mm was standard. Just getting into multi pitch trad and was wondering what was your preferred anchor material? I have followed some easy routes before and seen accessory cords, ropes and equalizer slings used and I like the rope method. For an anchor, all I have is my trusty double-length sling. If I need to adjust the length of a 3 point anchor like this, I can either double my cord, or take the fishermans and either make an overhand or better yet an alpine butterfly right above it to get rid of some slack. Anchoring to the rock – a crucial skill to develop if there ever one. What would be a typical length of cordelette for an anchor and masterpoint system at a trad multi-pitch belay station when switching leads? 20 feet? I am looking to practice a few types of systems so I am familiar with the knots, locker locations, etc. The slings would either be equalized as in the case of the cordelette (the sling drew down between each piece and tied in an overhand) or by using the sliding-X technique. In most anchoring situations you will have 4 to 6 loops. Mar 3, 2025 · Use a long cordelette or sling to create a fast, safe, and self-equalizing quad anchor I have never really landed on a specific anchor type for when I've got two solid bolts for an anchor. Dec 9, 2008 · The most common was to use 120cm slings to equalize the anchors (either 1 or 2 slings depending on the distance of runners) and attaching the climber to them via their ropes. What's my best best for an anchor? A sliding-X would make the anchor perfectly equalized, but extensible. Another guy here mentioned snow, which is a great point. A rethreaded is what you tie in to your harness, although in your case you're using an additional rope (as others pointed out, this can be super dangerous) A Flemish bend is the correct way to join two ropes in this instance. Most likely won't be swapping leads. 8mm Mammut dyneema stitched sling, I think it's 180cm- carry on glacier slogs for crevasse rescue anchor building 8mm Mammut dyneema shoulder-length stitched sling - girth hitched to picket (s) How many folks here use 6mm (or smaller) for rock anchors? 7mm? Also curious about the dyneema slings in the alpine. com However, I personally prefer a quad length 10cm sling over my cordelette 95% of the time for building anchors because it is lighter and less bulky. Another failure would be if one anchor point failed, a quad without limiter knots would suddenly lengthen (extension) which could cause a "shockload" in select circumstances. Wild Country seems to be marketing that sling as "the Cordelette" as in a name for that product. Cordelette Anchor: Using a cordelette is a very popular way to connect two, three or more anchor points to create static equalization. See full list on rei. Sometimes I like to extend it over an edge that is about 8-10 ft back from the anchor and if I completely untie my 20’ Cordelette, I can extend about 8’ or so to the ledge rather than only about 4’ if it’s in a tied loop. A Purcell is also just a cordelette that can be untied and used as an anchor if need be. If leading in blocks, I most often use a regular cordelette, sometimes anchor with the rope. 5 to 18kn (although I believe 18 to be a type for 8mm). 5 can vary from 0. I went with cordellete instead of a dyneema sling because of all the safety reasonings. 8mm is standard size for cordelette, and used day-in, day-out for anchoring. I prefer using the static line over webbing personally, as it's easier to work with and more versatile. Learn a few here. no need to dedicate a sling or two to that task. A quad is a different way to rig a multipiece anchor using similar cord/webbing. No one-size-fits all in either climbing style (blocks vs swing) or anchor building (slings vs rope). So, I understand that using a cordelette as a belay anchor really isn't the safest with nylon/dynamic materials. Virtually no weight, no bulk, and you can build almost any anchor that you can with cordelette. prior taking a class this weekend. But using your rope or PAS as the anchor is NG if you're leading in blocks, or worried about escaping the belay in a crisis. ” 1x 18’ Cordelette and 1x 240cm Dyneema Sling on 1x carabiner (sometimes just two cordelettes) This gives flexibility for anchor building on bolts, monolith, trees, pitons, or gear (we have it all). Webbing, Dyneema sling, or static rope for tying around a natural anchor for better abrasion resistance? You can build an anchor just about anywhere at the lake with a set of hexes and a 25-50 foot piece of static rope. The fact that you aren't charged for local TV rebroadcast fees and regional sports fees, is a huge savings. Although I am curious about what around here thinks. 6 mm cord is dramatically less strong than 7 mm. The cordelette is just a large sling, 6 or so metres in length. The quad is one type of anchor, but it’s not the be-all-end-all anchor and you may find yourself in situations where it may not be suitable. I recently bought a lot of gear to start climbing outdoors with a few friends, and I went to my local gym to get their opinion on the quality of my gear and how I use it. Whether the maker is calling it "Cordelette" or "Accessory" doesn't really tell you much; though it may intend to mean one is a good fit for anchor rigging, the other could be a good fit for other purposes. 3). gyid qmedk bsyk kryzvv bgfmxr fqict snm jryqaos luoc thecm